Another Pit Stop! Renner Springs to Elliott

After a couple of days out of touch with the world, we set off at 7.00am, keen to get to Elliott and civilisation.

The roller coaster route turned out to be quite hilly, but a steady tail wind got us to Elliott in record time, arriving here by 1.00pm.

We were a little surprised to discover how small a town it was.
A very basic campground, a small "supermarket", a pub with run down cabins - and not much else!

With a big ride tomorrow, we took a cabin at the pub -  pretty rough and no cooking  facilities, but adequate - and dinner will be pot noodles, cheese and tomato sandwiches and oranges!
No merlot at the pub, just cask dry wine! It is the outback, after all!

Did 91kms today.

Springs, Creeks and Wells! Banka Banka to Renner Springs

Most of the stopping places along the Stuart Highway are named after the nearby water supply - springs, creek or well. Until today, all we have seen have been bone dry. This morning we came across two creeks with shrinking, muddy ponds.

The roller coaster road would have been more demanding if we hadn't had the assistance of a cold, blustery tail wind. Gusts kept us on our toes especially when combined with the strong drafts from the road trains. Hard to control the wobbles!

Arrived at Renner Springs at midday. For a change, were able to treat ourselves to lunch, instead of the dried fruit, trail mix etc that we normally lunch on when on the road.

The Roadhouse offers the usual -  fuel, camping and motel rooms, takeaways, restaurant and pub - but no food supplies - not even milk! But it has very productive SPRING! A windmill pumps the rather cloudy water into two ponds.

As in so many of the outback roadhouses, the pub itself is full of character. This one is adorned in caps of all colours, autographed and donated over time by visiting patrons.

Did 60kms today. Total so far 2204kms.

Tail wind! Tennant Creek to Banka Banka Station

Had planned  a short ride today so set off later than usual at 8.30am.

Arrived at our destination, Threeways Roadhouse, very early because of a helpful tail wind. Bought iced coffee and muffins and took a photo of a 4 trailer road train parked there. We've come across a few of them usually carrying petrol. Most road trains we meet have 3 trailers. They're pretty formidable, too. All the truckies are very considerate of us.

Decided to take advantage of the tail wind and make for the next stop, Banka Banka Station.

It's a working cattle station with basic camping facilities. No power, fuel or food available, but very cheap so popular with the caravanners! It does have a miniature donkey which brays loudly at daybreak!

Were invited out to dinner by Jill, her husband and friends from a couple of the caravans.
Had a large glass of merlot, a nice dinner and friendly chat.
Friends, Barbara and her husband, live permanently in their luxurious trailer.

So many of the campers have stopped to chat. It appears that many have passed us several times as they head north.

Did 102kms today.

A lazy Day! Rest Day in Tennant Creek

Went to bed at 6.00pm last night and slept like Methuselah. Earlier Del had dosed me up with lots of water and a cold shower which has greatly reduced the heat rash.

At first Tennant Creek appears to be a depressed little one-horse town with a mainly indigenous population - graffiti and dropped rubbish everywhere. The locals seem happier than those in Alice. Most Caucasian faces are of caravanners passing through.

In fact it is the fifth largest town in the Northern Territory with a population of around 8000. Most of the businesses are Caucasian, Middle Eastern or Asian owned. Many appear up for sale.

There is a primary and a secondary school and even a university, Charles Darwin University - but just ONE supermarket and chemist.

An armed policeman checks customers going into the bottle store, where all transactions are done through a grill.

Spent the afternoon mapping out the next stage of the trip and attaching the lights on our bikes.

No Rest for the Wicked! Bonney Creek Rest Area to Tennant Creek

Why is it that Rest Areas seem to be always situated near the highway and close to a main trunk line?

Last night, with the roar of the road trains and the rumbling of the trains, all we needed was a 747 flight path and we would have had complete surround sound!

Not to mention a pack of dingoes that howled most of the night and wandered around the camp.

Didn't get much sleep and left this morning at 7.15am.

All along the route there were "cities" of termite towers stretching for hectares. Bored Aussie travellers obviously enjoy dressing the odd tower with old tee shirts, toilet paper or anything handy. Don't know what the poor termites make of it!

It's getting much harder to ride as the days get hotter. We're taking on lots of water, but I've still managed to develop a small area of prickly heat.

Arrived at Tennant Creek by 1.30pm and raced to buy stores before the only supermarket closes. Will take a much needed rest day here tomorrow.

Did 87kms today.

Devil's Marbles! Wycliffe Well to Bonney Well Rest Area

We set off energetically at 7.30am knowing that we had a relatively short, interesting ride today. After 20kms stopped for an iced coffee at Wauchope (pronounced Watchup) Roadhouse.

Then 10kms further on we stopped to view The Devils Marbles - hectares of unusual granite boulders piled in heaps by natural erosion - like Uluru, best seen at sunset or sunrise apparently. Looked amazing at 10am nevertheless!

Got our first real downhill run from the Marbles!

With a nice steady tailwind, we soon arrived at Bonney Well which will possibly be our last bush camp! Won't miss the flies, that's for sure!

Del spent ages clearing a nice tent site only to find that the ground was so hard that he could barely get the tent pegs in! C'est la vie!We have a fairly long run into Tennant Creek tomorrow - and civilisation?

Getting warmer every day. Did 45kms today.

ET Phone Home! Barrow Creek Roadhouse to Wycliffe Well Roadhouse

Had a surprisingly lovely dinner at Barrow Creek pub - crumbed lamb cutlets, baked potatoes and mixed veges. Del courageously had a shower last night, but I couldn't face the awful shower stall!

Left at 7.20am and battled a head wind all the way.

What a delight it was to arrive at Wycliffe Well Roadhouse - a little oasis with a grassy caravan park, a wandering emu, white donkeys, a large flock of noisy, white cockatoos in the trees and friendly hosts.

Wycliffe claims to have had UFO sightings and has labelled itself as the UFO capital of Australia.
The Roadhouse and park are adorned with alien statues and murals.

After the tiring ride, took a cabin to ensure a hot shower and a comfortable bed.

No stores available so it looks like another pub meal tonight - or maybe one of our emergency dried dinners!

Did another 90kms today.